Today my dad called me on Facetime. We were assisting with getting a newborn alpaca to nurse. He was understandably flabbergasted. Shouldn't we be driving or climbing a mountain or something? You may be wondering how in the world this happened. It's all thanks to Harvest Hosts. Harvest Hosts is a membership program for RVers. They recruit farms, wineries, museums and other attractions who have space to park RVs to open up their businesses for campers to boondock for a night. ("Boondocking" is overnighting in a space with no electricity or water hookups.) In return for a free night of parking, campers are asked to purchase products from the business or otherwise provide a minimum of a $20 donation to their cause. The program is a win-win for small businesses or non-profits and campers alike, and it's a great opportunity to meet other people and learn about their lives or business. (Harvest Hosts also has a sister program called Boondockers Welcome where RV enthusiasts offer free nights of stay, sometimes in their driveway, other times on a farm or forest.) On our long drive across the vast expanse of Nevada on U.S. Route 50 (The Loneliest Road in America), we stopped in Fallon and were greeted by Glenn and his wife Carolyn from Sawdust Alpacas. They had already messaged us about a birth that had happened the day before, so we were eager to meet the cria, as new alpacas are called. No sooner had we parked the truck that Glenn had us introduced to the newbie, then the kids walked and weighed an adult and got her ready for a toenail trim. We learned about their breeding program and the sheering process and met several favorites of their herd of 37. We got up early the next morning to help with feeding (hay, alfalfa pellets, and a chipped beet and water mixture), then Brickhead held the cria while he received a necessary vaccination. After two hours of feeding, playing with the alpacas, and learning about the breed and their habits, we went to get the RV ready to roll while Glenn began cleaning up the pens. In no time at all, Glenn came back to the RV and told us a new cria had just been born! We rushed back out to the field, surprised that we had just been there and didn't see any signs of a mama in the midst of the birthing process. Sure enough, the cria was laying in the sand, but the only mama in sight looking over him was the mama who gave birth two days before. The kids helped clean up the cria, then we all went on a search to find the mama, who still wasn't stepping forward to check on her baby. Our detective skills led us to determine that Lily was the mother. We all corralled her, Glenn haltered her, and Banana led her to meet her son. We all watched as the cria learned to stand, then walk, then nurse. Such a special experience to be there when all of that took place! Glenn and Carolyn take amazing care of their animals and pay close attention to details in keeping it clean. But the alpacas help too! Unlike most farm animals, they naturally have a communal bathroom area. Makes for much easier clean up!
Sawdust Alpacas has two RV spaces on the farm and offer 30 amp electric hook up for a charge of $10. Carolyn runs a store with gorgeous sweaters, hats, gloves, and other alpaca wool items made both locally and shipped from Peru. Last year Sawdust Alpacas hosted 300 visitors, and this year we were their 182nd family. In talking with them, we learned that they used to live in Polson, Montana (where we just happened to be a few weeks ago) and, in the 1960's, Glenn put up the reinforcing concrete on the tunnel of Going to the Sun Road, which we learned about from our GyPSy Guide when we drove the road in Glacier National Park! Later he worked construction building many structures around Lake Tahoe--where we were last week. Talk about a small world. We highly recommend the Harvest Hosts membership for RVers. Currently with 4,250 host locations, it's well worth the membership fee. You'll be paid many times over with the opportunities for learning about our country and it's connections with the world and meeting the wonderful hosts. I have been known to have complained a time or two about the "vast nothingness" of Nevada and how I kind of needed it to fall off the map, but the stop here was totally worth the drive across "The Loneliest Road in America." If we're ever back in the area again, we'll definitely be requesting a stay with Sawdust Alpacas! As a side note, the Loneliest Road really wasn't that bad. The long stretches between small towns were filled with beautiful scenery. It was a gorgeous drive--and easy to follow! We didn't even need the GPS!
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John Muir once said of Yosemite Park, "None can escape its charms. Its natural beauty cleans and warms like a fire, and you will be willing to stay forever in one place like a tree... But no temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its wall seems to glow with life.” The Yosemite Valley truly is one of the most awe-inspiring places on earth. With El Capitan towering 3,000 feet to one side and Half Dome soaring at 4,737 feet on the other, the view is a humble reminder of our insignificance in this big ol' world. Traditionally, Yosemite has always held a special place in the hearts of my family. My grandpa has been roaming those mountains since he was a toddler. Forty some years ago my grandparents built a cabin in Greely Hill, about an hour west of the park entrance. Twelve years ago they built a house on that property and now live there full time. Since even the grocery store is an hour away, they consider the park to be right next door. You could say they know the Sierras like the back of their hand, and Yosemite has always been a favorite spot. Every one of my aunts and uncles has climbed the famed granite Half Dome monolith at least once. My grandpa has climbed it 26 times, my grandma 8. It's not an easy feat and it's a pretty cool family tradition. Over the years, though, things have changed. As more and more people have come to visit the park each year, roads have been rerouted. Parking lots have become over-crowded. A shuttle system has been implemented and pretty near mandatory if you want to stop and explore certain parts of the park. Traffic wait times have peaked at 2-3 hours. This year the park began requiring a reservation (made online at Recreation.gov) before you can enter the park, even if your intent is to drive through the park via state route 120 over Tioga pass, which locals have used since 1919 to get to the other side of the mountains. This population problem has led to my grandparents vowing to never go back to Yosemite again, a truly heartbreaking sentiment, and a testament of the times. All that being said, Yosemite was on our radar for this cross-country trip, but since we have been there several times, it wasn't a priority. What brought us to California was spending some quality time with FAMILY! We arrived at my grandparents' house on Friday and were greeted with a delicious dinner of beef stew, muffins, and homemade applesauce. Grandpa had us sufficiently hooked up with 30 amp power, water, sewer, and internet in no time. If we thought that was full service for a "moochdocking" stay, the next day grandma and grandpa took it to the next level. While I got all our laundry and schooling done, the guys changed the oil and rotated tires on the truck, scrubbed all the mud and bugs off the rig, and stapled wall panels that had been shaken loose during Rivy's 6,000 mile journey across the country. It felt so good to have a day to get caught up on those chores and maintenance that needed to get done, and we were so grateful for all the tools and space that my grandparents had so we could get that accomplished! On Sunday afternoon my aunts and uncles came over from the Modesto area to visit. Immediately my Uncle Stephen suggested wrestling with the kids. Three years ago when we visited, that's how he broke the ice, so apparently he thought wrestling a 10 and 12 year old would be a good idea. LOL! He certainly has a way with kids and it definitely worked because for the rest of the night they asked if they could wrestle again. This is how they will always remember U. Stephen--I'm curious what will happen on our next visit! We had a delicious dinner of Papa Murphy's Pizza (man, how we have missed this!) and a healthy salad. My birthday was the day before, so Dusty and the kids made my favorite Dr. Pepper cupcakes for dessert. The evening was filled with catching up, laughter, stories, good food, and fun. No time was wasted as we jumped in to great conversations! Monday we decided to try our luck at Yosemite. The last time we went was May 2019 and we decided then that it was too crowded for our tastes. But...you know...FOMO. We had to go. We set our trusty GyPSy Guide* for a tour of the park, listening to history, geology, and fun facts about Muir's favorite place on earth as we drove. (Quick plug: if you find yourself in a National Park or popular outdoor tourist destination, go to gypsyguide.com and see if there is a tour available for your location. Download the app and set the tour to play as you're entering the park. The tour runs off of GPS navigation, so as you approach a conversation point, your personal tour guide comes on and tells you about the location. He's funny and knowledgeable, and it's just like having a park ranger in your car as you drive. We use this app to help navigate parks and to determine the best lookouts, hikes, and activities, plus the history and science behind the parks makes for an enjoyable and educational experience! Forget driving blind. Get the GyPSy App. I promise, I don't get paid for this ad.) Our first stop in the park was to Tuolumne Grove, one of the larger groves of Giant Sequoias in the park. (Tip: If you want to see giant Sequoias, go to Calaveras Big Trees State Park. We didn't go this time, but what you see there is definitely worth the drive!) We hiked about a mile on a downhill paved road to the grove. The first fallen sequoia we came to, Brickhead got stung by an angry yellow jacket (or meat bee, as Grandpa calls them). We climbed through another fallen tree, then made our our own beeline back to the truck for some first aid. Thankfully, stopping at the El Capitan Bridge to watch the climbers took the sting off Brickhead's mind. What looked like a tiny house spider on a wall was actually a fairly large bright orange bivy tent and gear someone had set up for sleeping on the side of the cliff. With binoculars we spotted about six climbers that you could barely see with the naked eye. That granite monolith is just so enormous! We met Tom Evans, a professional photographer who captures the climbers in action. We didn't realize he was a celebrity in his profession, having been the only still photographer to catch Alex Honnold complete his 2008 famed three hour and 56 minute free-solo climb of El Capitan. He briefly told us of his climbing adventures and what these climbers have to plan for. Some of them spend more than two weeks climbing to the top of that wall! Before we left, we met two girls who had just finished a two day climb. Absolutely amazing. A little ways down the road, we stopped at a gently moving spot on the Merced River to wade in the cold water. John Muir said the Merced River was the most joyful stream born in the Sierra. "The sun shines not on us, but in us. The rivers flow not past, but through us." He was right...there is just something about wading in living waters that makes you feel...connected. Upon entering the Valley, it was immediately apparent that people were going to ruin this trip. (My grandma jokingly reminded me that I am some of those people! While that is true in a sense, it's a different kind of people who wreck the experience for everyone.) We didn't get further than the first pull-off that we heard no less than three car horns from different angry drivers frustrated by someone slowing down in front of them to take a picture or cutting them off to change lanes or park their car. In case your background does not provide you with this important bit of information, you should know this one fact: angry car horns do NOT belong in nature. Especially in one of the most beautiful places on earth. My patience with people ran out right then and there and I knew spending time in the busy section of the park was going to be a "no go" for me. From there, I drove around the parking lot a few times (because there was no parking availability) while Dusty and the kids ran to the gift shop for collector's tokens. Then it was time to escape! On the way out, we took a drive to Hetch Hetchy reservoir to walk across the dam. Three years ago, Grandpa took us out that way and told us about this controversial location. We listened to the story then, and were elated a half a year later when a homeschool field trip to our Nation's Capitol turned the story into a lesson on congressional voting. (Thanks to COVID, you can now find the interactive lesson here on the Capitol's website. I highly recommend a visit, especially for middle school kids--or adults--who would like to find out more!) If you don't have time though, here's a quick history lesson. You remember the 1849 Gold Rush, right? San Francisco’s population went from 1,000 people in 1848 to a whopping 25,000 by the next year. By the late 1800's, the city was desperately searching for alternative sources of water. In 1906, a major earthquake destroyed much of the city, breaking gas lines and igniting debris and spreading to structures that survived the quake. Lack of water made firefighting impossible. As they rebuilt they knew they needed a fresh water source, and Hetch Hetchy seemed to them the best solution to their problem. But the valley, which had been described as the twin of the Yosemite valley, was on protected land of the National Park. For over a decade, the city lobbied congress in hopes to gain approval to dam the valley in order to create a reservoir. In 1913, environmentalists finally lost out and the damming of the Tuolumne River was approved. The O’Shaughnessy Dam was constructed and a 167 mile aqueduct was built to deliver some of the cleanest water in the country to what is now 2.6 million people in San Francisco. The existence of this dam is still a matter of huge controversy in the area, and a vote went out a few years back to tear down the dam, restoring the valley to its former glory. Again, environmentalists lost and the dam still stands. After our quick visit to learn about this famed dam, we headed back to Grandma and Grandpa's for dinner. We spent the next day planning our future route and asking Grandpa for his expertise. As mentioned, he knows the Sierras like the back of his hand and was a wealth of knowledge about roads all the way through to Utah and Arizona.
We had a wonderful visit with my grandparents. I can't thank them enough for all of their hospitality and help with getting all our much needed maintenance and chores done. We don't get many opportunities to visit, so every time we do, I learn more about them. I thoroughly enjoy listening to their stories and am constantly amazed by the life they've shared. (I never realized how much time they've spent backpacking in the mountains!) I so admire their love for each other and all they do to keep involved and stay young! They are truly an inspiration and set a good example for the life our family hopes to live out together. Thank you, Grandma and Grandpa! We love you and are already looking forward to our next visit. *Contains affiliate link The photo above makes me laugh so much. It's becoming a tradition for Dusty to try at least 4 times to get "the perfect photo" in front of these signs. Sometimes we even have to go back to the signs multiple times for the perfect lighting or if a helpful visitor didn't get the right angle. We all work hard to sit/stand, smile, and look perfect before the timer goes off. This time Jana decided to throw Daddy for a loop and jump just as Dusty got into place. And it turned out perfect! LOL! To review: Traveling south from eastern Washington, the skies filled with smoke from nearby wildfires, but one thing remained clear: the area was a hotbed of volcanic activity. You've likely heard of the Ring of Fire which encircles the moving tectonic plates of the Pacific Ocean. Within this ring are 452 active and dormant volcanoes, which accounts for nearly 75% of the world's volcanic activity, and about 90% of earthquakes. The west coast is full of opportunities to learn about, explore, and experience these forces of nature, so we made a few stops on the way south. Lava Beds National MonumentJust across the California border is Lava Beds National Monument. This park boasts over twenty caves of varying difficulty that visitors can explore. Unfortunately, most of them were closed when we visited. Bummer for us! On the plus side, if you choose to arrive any time in the near future, you'll be driving on smooth, newly paved roads throughout the park to get to your cave crawling destinations! Lava Beds is more than just stories of eruptions; it has been home to the Modoc people for over 10,000 years. The park does a remarkable job teaching Modoc culture and honoring their history, including the historic battles of the Modoc War, fought in the northern part of the park. If you're interested, be sure to pick up some pamphlets from the visitor center.
Eventually droves of people began moving to and through Oregon and south via the Applegate Trail through Modoc ancestral lands. Some new settlers were ruthless murders who coaxed their way into Modoc villages to murder men, women, and children. Our government considered natives to be "in the way" of progress, so they began promising better lives-- provisions of food, shelter, and clothing-- in exchange for relocation.
The fight didn't end well for the Modocs. If winning could be decided by tallying casualties, the natives certainly should have won, but that's not the way it ever ended. Desperate, the tribe eventually gave up and returned to the reservation. The beautiful lake which their culture relied on was drained and turned to farmland. Their way of life was nearly erased. Thankfully, some traces of the Modocs still remain. In places like Symbol Bridge and Big Painted Cave, visitors can barely see paintings left on the cave walls. But those paintings are nothing compared to the carvings one can see at Petroglyph Point Trail. This short trail takes you along a cliff wall filled with 5,000 individual carvings. But, again, there is something strange. The carvings are 9+ feet high on the cliff wall. How could they have carved this artwork so high? What now is a flat, wide expanse of wavy rock used to be Tule Lake, and the cliff used to be an island. As the carvings are suggested to be up to 6,000 years old, it's possible that generations of Modocs paddled out in canoes to carve into the soft volcanic rock. Sadly, much of the customs or meanings behind these petroglyphs have been lost as that information was not able to be passed down through the generations. The history geek in me loved the stories of Modoc culture, while the geology geek loved the lava! Throughout the park, lava flows take on different forms, sometimes jagged boulders and sometimes fairly smooth flows that even left behind casts of trees it took down as it slowly cooled. We learned the difference between a crater and a caldera. A crater is a lava vent that has filled up or closed off. A caldera is formed when the mountain implodes as the magma chamber collapses. For this reason, scientists have been asking for Crater Lake to be renamed Caldera Lake for decades. Lava Beds NM does actually have several craters though and visitors can easily hike to them. As mentioned, you can also find lots of lava tubes caves here. We were only able to see Skull Cave and Mudpot Cave, both "eh" on the scale of excitement. If we had the chance to come back again, we would definitely make sure the caves were open! We've heard from several people that they are pretty top notch and you should make sure to bring flashlights (and back ups!) Lassen Volcanic National ParkMaybe you've heard California is in a terrible drought. I'm not sure how long it's been since they've had rain, but judging from the wild fires, numerous dried up lakes, dusty earth, and dried up crops, I'm guessing it's been a long while. The Ramseys have been enjoying beautiful weather throughout our entire trip, but luck ran out when we arrived at Lassen. Or you could say we brought good luck with us! Because the day we arrived, it poured for hours! So much so that the higher elevations of Lassen got up to 5 inches of snow, closing down about 20 miles of the road through the park that connects the North and South entrances.
The next day, the kids and I stayed home at our dirty trailer park campground (Lassen West Village is NOT recommended!) to do some school work, but Dusty was determined to see more of the park. He drove around to the north side and visited the Butte and Manzanita Lake sections of the park and what he saw and did that day put Lassen at the very top of his favorite parks list. Not having been there, I think this post will best be told in pictures.
Lassen is one of the few places on Earth where you can find all four types of volcanoes: a shield, composite, cinder cone, and plug dome. After his Cinder Cone climb, he drove on to the north entrance for better views of Lassen Peak, one of the largest plug dome volcanoes in the world. He drove the 20 miles of the park road that were open, then returned to Lake Manzanita and waited out a thunderstorm to get a good view of the peak's reflection in the water. The solitude gave him time to sit with nature and relax in the peace and quiet, leaving him glowing and recharged when he got home.
Our trip to Lassen wasn't what we expected due to road closures, and because of the Dixie fire that raged through much of the park in 2021, leaving many trails closed. Bumpass Hell, a hydrothermal hotbed of activity, and major park attraction was completely closed off, and we've decided that, given the chance, we would love to come back and explore what we missed (or see it again, in Dusty's case.) Traveling south from eastern Washington, the skies filled with smoke from nearby wildfires, but one thing remained clear: the area was a hotbed of volcanic activity. You've likely heard of the Ring of Fire which encircles the moving tectonic plates of the Pacific Ocean. Within this ring are 452 active and dormant volcanoes, which accounts for nearly 75% of the world's volcanic activity, and about 90% of earthquakes. The west coast is full of opportunities to learn about, explore, and experience these forces of nature, so we made a few stops on the way south. Newberry National Volcanic Monument Ever heard of Newberry? Yeah, neither had we. Traveling south on 97 near Bend, Oregon, we were struck by the sudden lava bed of basalt boulders and a small cone volcano right next to the highway. We made a quick exit at the Lava Lands Visitor Center and met some engaging rangers who sold us on coming back later to explore. (We needed to get to our campground before they closed the gates and made us spend the night in the pizza shop parking lot. Literally--that's what they told us.) Newberry is the largest volcano in the Cascade Range. Born some 500,000 years ago, its eruptions have covered 1,200 square miles and have produced over 400 volcanic vents and cinder cones (those perfect little cone volcanoes with the round vents on top) during its active periods. Much of the park centers around the five mile wide Newberry caldera, which includes lakes, hot springs, waterfalls, and obsidian flows. We drove an hour and 45 minutes north of our campground in hopes that the trip would be worth our time, and Newberry did not disappoint. We started our adventure at the park's youngest lava flow, the Big Obsidian Flow. This eruption occurred 1,300 years ago and produced a slow, 150-foot thick flow of lava. When the Ranger told us the flow was 10% obsidian, I didn't expect to find much. Boy, was I wrong! Native American tribes used to travel for days to stock up on a year's supply of obsidian for arrowheads and tools, but even with those stock piles removed, the boulders of shiny, black volcanic glass were scattered everywhere. (Fun facts: Surgical blades made of obsidian are sharper and allow for faster wound healing. More fun facts: Back in the 1960's, scientists from NASA came to the flow to extract water from rocks, in hopes of discovering a way to live on the moon.) Our kids have been dying to find a hot spring since we traveled to Iceland in 2017. Part of the draw to our visit to Newberry was real hot springs you could swim in, so we were sure to pack our suits and towels. The ranger told us it was a short 1.5 mile hike to get there. As it turns out, it was almost a three mile hike, and at about 2.7 miles in, a big clap of thunder rang through the mountain. Something we hadn't prepared for was a storm. But after hiking much further than we had anticipated, nothing was going to stop us from soaking in those springs! We continued on, found a copse of trees to change in, and rushed through the cold air to the hot springs, dodging raindrops along the way. Then... as soon as our bottoms hit water, it started to hail! Then hailed some more. Every time we thought it was going to let up, it started hailing harder. So, there we were, laying in this primitive, shallow gravel bed at the edge of Paulina Lake while small balls of ice pelted our skin like needles. We toughed it out for a good 15-20 minutes until it really let loose, followed by a louder clap of thunder that caused us to skedaddle real quick! After leaving the hot springs, we had the pleasure of walking over a nice bed of ice balls to change into our partially wet clothes and hike back! Ahh...the memories! Newberry is considered a National Monument and isn't advertised like the parks are, but is well worth a visit. It's still an active volcano and has nine United States Geological Survey monitoring stations to detect early and subtle signs of activity. The campground only has room for smaller RV's and tents, but is a peaceful area right on the lake. The obsidian flows are phenomenal, and worth the visit in themselves. Newberry can easily be paired with a trip to Crater Lake. I'm sure the hot springs are much more relaxing when it's not hailing, so always be sure to check the weather before you go! Crater Lake National Park Seven thousand, seven hundred years ago, Mt. Mazama (go ahead--say that out loud) stood 12,000 feet tall, but beneath its snow-capped peak, the earth was angry. Heat and pressure built up in a magma chamber below until an eruption 100 times the magnitude of the 1980 eruption of Mt. St. Helens emptied its chamber, causing the summit to implode. Left behind was a caldera (not a crater, as you'll later find out in Part 2) averaging 5 miles wide. Over time, rain and snow fell into the caldera, creating the deepest lake in the United States at 1,943 feet deep. Since there are no inlets carrying sediment or pollution into Crater Lake, the water is actually cleaner and clearer than what comes out of your faucet at home. We stopped at Crater Lake in May 2019 during our west coast trip, but the winter snowfall still had the main visitor section under six feet of snow and most of Rim Road was impassable. During our first visit, we were absolutely awestruck by the beauty of the crystal blue lake, offset by the white snow all around. This trip was different given the slight haze leftover from wildfires nearby and wind that disturbed the smooth glass of the lake. Nevertheless, you can't visit Crater Lake without being wowed. We spent the day driving the 33-mile Rim Road, stopping at major overlooks, and taking lots of photos like good tourists do. We climbed Watchman Overlook for a view of Wizard Island, a cinder cone volcano that erupted out of the lake about 7,300 years ago. (Fun fact: three other cones have erupted under the lake, but don't reach the surface.) We spotted the Phantom Ship, an island that looks like a ship sailing away from the shore, and did an easy hike out to Plaikni Falls. We finished our visit with a hike down Cleetwood Cove Trail, the only lake access point in the park. Here, visitors can board tour boats (no longer running when we arrived), or go for a swim in one of the cleanest lakes in the world. We zigzagged down the steep, ashy path and were surprised when we got to the bottom. The access point was just a huge pile of boulders! We didn't find a spot to swim--it was too cold for that anyway--or even wade, really, so we each found a spot to stick our feet in the water just so we could say we did it! Crater Lake is certainly one of America's most beautiful locations. If you go, be sure to look for Old Man of the Lake. This vertically floating log was originally found floating in the lake in 1896. It's splintered white trunk sticks up about four feet out of the water. Peering down through the clear water, you can still see the roots below. But this tree isn't rooted in place; it floats--vertically, I remind you--through the lake and can be spotted in different locations each day. We didn't find out about this until the day after we arrived, so if you find it, we want photos!
We continued our adventures through the Ring of Fire as we traveled south to Lava Beds National Monument and Lassen Volcanic National Park. You can read about those stops in Part Two of We Fell In to a Burning Ring of Fire. Until then, I'm curious, what areas with volcanic activity have you been to, and what (or where) surprised you the most? My whole life I've been the runt. I say this laughingly now, but you can be sure that for the majority of my adolescence I believed it was anything but funny. Growing up in Ohio I was the smallest in my family, smallest in my class--and at several points, the smallest in my school. I was always called "skinny," a word I detest to this day, and my pale, knobby "chicken legs" made me self-conscious to wear anything that wasn't ankle length, especially if gym shoes were involved. As a teen, I remember my dad once telling me that we're just a family of late bloomers. The thought provided little comfort at the time, but being as how I take after him genetically, it stuck with me. It wasn't until adulthood when we starting taking our children west to visit my dad's family that I really understood what he meant. My dad grew up in Modesto, California and moved to Ohio in his late teens to try something different. He left behind his mother (a Denlinger), his dad (a Brubaker), and four brothers and sisters. Since the 1980's his side of the family has grown exponentially. And I mean that for real. My grandparents currently have 16 grandchildren and 22.5 great grandchildren (one is still cookin')--and only six grandchildren have started making babies! Looking back at the family tree, my Great Grandpa Ira Denlinger was a handsome fella with a bone structure that has dominated his offspring for generations. Among these traits are long arms, a high metabolism, the "Denlinger bump" on the back of the skull, and knobby knees, ankles, wrists, and elbows. Most importantly are the famous "Denlinger Toes," which hilariously become a source of familial competition among those who have been blessed with them. (Who has the longest toes? Whose toes are the boniest? Is your middle toe longer than the one next to it? Are they even "real" Denlinger toes or are they a bit too chubby?)
As he grew, he was meeting milestones, but growth was slow. He always has remained in the low 0-5% percentile on growth charts, and for the majority of his early years doctors would hound me to do testing for any abnormalities. I stuck to my guns: why subject him to testing like something is "wrong" with him when common sense tells us genetics are alive and well in this child? With all of that background in mind, let me tell you about our visit to see my Aunt Karen and Uncle Jamie's family in eastern Washington. Dad's younger sister, Karen, had five children, and already has eighteen grandchildren, ranging from 16 years to 3 months, likely with more to come. Their family is eyebrow deep in big time agriculture. On top of a hill overlooking fields of peppermint and echinacea, a peach and pear orchard, and dusty lots full of big farm machinery, sits my aunt and uncle's cozy and beautiful home. For four nights, we parked our RV behind their shop, with views of their manicured green yard and minty fields right out our window. As a special treat, one of my cousins and her children drove up from Oregon to spend a few days with us. I hadn't seen my cousin, who travels the world as a missionary, in over twenty-five years. (It always seemed that if she was home, we were overseas and vice versa.) All of the kids played outside, rode around on the golf cart, and swam in the creek. I was just a tad embarrassed when Brickhead inspired my cousin's oldest daughter (age 6), then his sister, to climb to the top of the gazebo. (We'll file that under "things you never thought you'd have to tell your son not to do.") Then Aunt Karen spoiled us with a wonderful dinner complete with the family's own homemade mocha ice cream for dessert. (This is a Brubaker family tradition. I don't know how often they make this, but every time we come to visit, someone fixes mocha ice cream and totally makes my year!) During that visit, I laughed at all the things we had in common. My cousin has the same slender legs and long arms. She's the only person in my family who also gets the heebie jeebies when she thinks about "settling down," because moving every few years is just too exciting. She also has a "mini" child, destined to always be considered a few years younger than she actually is until she reaches her mid-thirties! The morning after we arrived, Dusty flew off to Boston to do a job interview with Liberty Mutual's flight department, so he was gone for two days. We happened to arrive during harvest season and in the middle of the week, so since Dusty was gone and everyone else was at work during the day, the kids and I had some much needed time to get caught up on school work and chores. I was beyond thankful that Aunt Karen allowed me to wash all our bedding in her laundry room! It felt so good to sleep in clean sheets and blankets again! Tuesday evening we had Papa Murphy's Pizza with another of my cousins and his adorable family. (Mary and Gary, if you're reading this, you can bet we talked about you! We miss our Pizza Nights!) The next day, after lunch the kids went swimming in the creek with his oldest girls. Good ol' farm fun! Since they live just up the driveway from Karen and Jamie, we got to see his sweet wife and kids a bit more, but now I'm realizing I didn't get many photos of them, and not a single photo of my cousin! A few of my cousins live a little further west of their parents, so Wednesday we drove to visit my other cousin at his shop, Cliffco, where he fabricates metal parts on his high tech laser cutter and metal press. He was so nice to stay after normal work hours to make the kids a souvenir. Originally he had planned a 3-D dinosaur puzzle, but when he found out the file was corrupted, he resorted to a cutting out of Darth Vader (Score!). Brickhead was thrilled and can't wait to hang it on his wall. It was a short visit, but totally awesome meeting his wife and watching his laser machine in action (wow, that thing is fast!)
One Aunt and Uncle, four out of five cousins, and LOTS of kids in just four days of fun. Y'all...these are my people. The whole time I was recognizing bits of myself in all of them. Those Denlinger genes are strong, let me tell ya! So many petite kids (and adults, too, really.) So many long arms with strong veins and knobby wrists. We didn't have a toe contest this time, but I know they were there under socks and shoes! All these attributes are celebrated here, and I just felt good "belonging." (I promise, all of this is not to say I have a complex. I don't have a problem with fitting in, and I'm also thankful for the attributes I get from my mom's side...but all this family was just so similar!) It's kind of cool--and also left my Banana asking me if her toes were skinny and boney enough because she really wanted to fit into the Denlinger toe clan, too! I just love it so much.
Even more interestingly is that it's not just physical attributes. Personality traits get passed down too. (I've been told more than a time or two that this is where my temper comes from! Maybe a little bit of "tell-it-like-it-is"--also known as blunt honesty. Everyone there was so kind and down to earth, and I'd like to think that maybe some of that got passed down too. Our visit was wonderful and also too short. I'm so thankful for the technology that has kept us all in contact enough over the decades that we feel like we know each other, even though we've really only been together a few weeks of my lifetime. My beautiful family welcomed us with open arms and treated us far too good while we were there. (Let's face it...farmer people are the best people.) I'm not sure where we'll be next, but I hope they all know that they are just as welcome at our next home as they made us at theirs. Thank you, Rumbles! We have so many wonderful memories to take with us. Hoping to make more again soon. After a refreshing long weekend with long-time friends, we traveled north to Glacier National Park. Before arriving, there were four things we knew about Glacier: 1. The Going to the Sun Road was remarkable and not to be missed. 2. You needed a pass to drive the Going to the Sun Road. 3. There are a lot of people. 4. You should arrive early. As prepared travelers, we made sure to log on to Recreation.gov at 8:00 a.m. the day before our arrival to get our three day pass. But we later found out that we severely underestimated the number of travelers in the park and just how early we should arrive. You've likely heard that the National Parks have been pretty busy since 2020, so to regulate the visitor population, heavily traveled parks or park attractions have implemented a reservation system. Since Glacier stays closed under 18-24 feet of snow for most of the year, an exorbitant amount of people flock to the park during the four-month open season. Visitor reservations are supposed to aid in overcrowding, but there are some loopholes in the system. The main road through the park is closed from 10:00 p.m. to 6:00 a.m., but the entrance is still open. So, once visitors get in the gate, no one checks their reservation and they're free to go anywhere they want. Taking full advantage of the loophole, visitors without passes just wake up earlier! We talked to one group that said they entered at 4:30 a.m.! As you're about to find out, we learned passes don't really mean a hill of beans when it comes to controlling the number of visitors. We were imagining that the two hour drive along the Going to the Sun Road would have lots of stops along the way with beautiful overlooks and short hikes that would fill an entire day with activities. And, in theory, that is likely a correct assessment. So when we set out Tuesday morning, we were prepared with a packed lunch and "just-in-case" dinner, but left our day-hike backpacks at home. We were able to stop at the first pull off for views of a river and teeny waterfall, and we found parking at "The Loop," the only switchback on the mountain and an engineering marvel of its time, with beautiful overlooks. But by the time we reached the mid-way Logan's Pass Visitor Center where we would find our first hiking options, the entire parking lot was full and at least thirty cars were zig-zagging up and down rows waiting for a spot to open. We drove around the lot for about 25 minutes, then gave up. Every parking lot from there to the end of the road were completely full. We cruised out to Many Glacier at the eastern side of the park for views and hiking, but every trail there was 9-15 miles and we weren't prepared for that kind of distance that day. (Lessoned learned: be prepared for anything!) So, we returned to Going to the Sun Road, retracing our route, hoping to find parking. We drove past Sun Point: no parking. At St. Mary's Falls, the small lot was full and five cars were already waiting at the side of the road, trying their best not to block traffic. We drove back and forth, back and forth, waiting to park. Nada. Decided to drive back to Logan's Pass. The lot was so full then, that rangers had completely blocked it off and were guarding the lot entrance so no one else tried to enter. At that point, we were left with two choices: burn up fuel driving back and forth until we could park or go home. Of course going home is never an option for those with FOMO (eh-hem Dustin Ramsey). Fortunately we had our trusty GyPSy Guide* to listen to along the way. Had the info memorized by the third or fourth trip through. We managed to snag a spot by St. Mary's Lake near the tiny Wild Goose Island, which is famous for it's opening scene in The Shining (1978). There was an overlook with a gorgeous view and a short, skinny trail leading to the lake. Another visitor wanted to venture down to the lake, but he was afraid to by himself (grizzlies and black bears are plentiful in this area), so we all grabbed our bear spray and dabbed our feet in the crystal clear water for a bit. Later, we took turns sitting in the unparked truck while we visited with a family of wild mountain goats near a boardwalk off the main road. Around 3:30, we decided to try our luck at the main visitor's center again. Y'all, we found a parking space! The day was almost over and we felt like we could finally begin our adventures! The Hidden Lake Overlook was 2.7 miles (one way) through a golden valley surrounded by sedimentary striped mountains. We watched a herd of 15-20 big horned sheep grazing on the grasses as we passed. The cool air and beautiful views must have put everyone in a good mood, because all of the hikers were chatty on the trail! One family even gave us their phone number so we could call them when we get to their stomping grounds in California! The next day we went white water rafting with Glacier Rafting Company down the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. The river was pretty calm with only one level three rapid and our guide was quite capable, making sure no one in the boat went swimming in the frigid waters. Our boat certainly wasn't full, with just the four of us and two older gentlemen, so Dusty and I and our guide had to work pretty hard to fight the wind that seemed to come out of nowhere. The kids learned to work as a team and stay in sync with other paddlers, and of course loved the thrill of going through the rapids, though they both said they wished they had a wilder ride.
lay those purple mountains majesty that we've always sung about, with little white glaciers tucked between their ridges. We saw a mountain goat and finally got to see our black bear! Fact: Scientists predict that the glaciers at Glacier National Park will all be gone by 2030 if the warming trends continue. When seeing gorgeous views like this, it didn't take long for nature therapy to do its trick. After an elevation gain of 2200 ft, we reached the mountain summit, revealing Grinnell Glacier tucked between the peaks and the ice melt lake below . What. a. sight. I just had to stand there for a moment taking in the strange and peaceful views. The fog hung low, so we couldn't tell just how high the surrounding mountains were. As it turns out, we were so in awe of the view that we didn't take many pictures, not that it would do it any justice.
mountain. The views were just as beautiful seeing them from the other direction. Of all the hikes we've done, in all corners of the earth, this hike was my favorite. Absolutely stunning from start to finish. Tips for GlacierGlacier is absolutely beautiful and has a lot to offer, whether you prefer enjoying the views from a car or ferry or you're wanting to get into the backwoods and explore. If you have a chance to go, I highly recommend it. Due to the high volumes of visitors, we don't feel like we were able to make the best of our visit, so if you ever get to go, here are some recommendations. 1. Don't underestimate the crowds. Don't forget to get your pass on Recreation.gov to make life easier on you, but also don't think it will help thin the crowds that much. We went after Labor Day, hoping to miss summer crowds...but so did everyone else! We didn't have traffic, per se, but we couldn't find parking. Some people say they've actually been stuck in lines of traffic the whole way down GTTSR.
a pretty penny, but you'll be able to say you rode in a Red Jammer, which has been serving park visitors since 1936, and you'll have a personal tour guide.
3. Campgrounds are nicer in West Glacier, and the park campground is first come, first serve. Have an idea of what you'd like to see and do and plan accordingly based on where you're leaving from.. We wasted a lot of time driving back and forth. 4. Check the National Park Service website for trail closures. Glacier has the highest population of bears among the national parks, so they often close trails due to bear activity. 5. Part of the park is in Canada! Glacier is the world's first International Park, sharing territory with Canada, the U.S., and the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. We unfortunately didn't get to Canada, but if you go, bring a passport and check it out! 6. The best way to conclude your days at Glacier is with huckleberry ice cream at the Huckleberry Patch in Hungry Horse, just west of West Glacier. Here you will find anything you can possibly imagine made of huckleberries from jam to honey to gummy bears, pies, tea, coffee, BBQ sauce, and more. 7. Lastly, if you are physically capable, don't miss the Grinnell Glacier hike! If 11.6 miles is too much, consider purchasing tickets on the ferry to get you across Swiftcurrent and Josephine Lakes to cut at least 3.5 miles off. Either way you choose, you won't regret it! *Contains affiliate link The year was 2009. Our friend Micah had discovered this secluded beach about an hour away from us. In South Korea, "secluded" was a luxury that we hadn't experienced in a while. Dusty and I and five or six other couples enjoyed a whole day on the beach--a bunch of Americans on a Korean beach--with no Koreans! We found starfish, did handstand competitions, drank (a lot), and I'll always remember Micah building a raft out of a bunch of trash he found and paddling his kids around on it. This was a day that all of us would cherish and talk about for years to come. For the last thirteen years, we never imagined that history would find a way to repeat itself. As a young married couple, stationed in Korea, Dusty and I did everything with our DUSTOFF family. The team of medevac Blackhawk pilots and their families were closer than any other group we've been around during our entire military career. Most of us had dogs and no children, but there was one couple with two sweet children that we all looked up to. The Helsers were the coolest. Micah and Katie were adventurous, easy going, talented, creative, insightful, resourceful, fun, and they were amazing parents. After Korea, they spent a few years at Ft. Drum before exiting the military to live their dream. They bought a plot of land in Montana and became true homesteaders. They lived off the grid in a horse trailer while building a house, and, over time, dug irrigation ditches; put up fences for horses, chickens, and cattle; planted their garden; and so much more that I will never begin to comprehend, all while raising two children. Sadly, as all their dreams were coming to fruition, Katie was diagnosed with cancer. She recently passed away, but Micah, Natalie, and Jake have kept her love alive on this farm. We lost touch with the Helsers over the years, but our bestie from Korea kept in contact with them. "Uncle Mike," as our kids know him, even though they have only seen him a few times, drove four hours to Wisconsin to visit us as we passed through in August. He had missed us so much that he knew a few days with the Ramseys wasn't enough! (Isn't that right, Mike?!) He had the bright idea to call up Micah in Montana and ask if we could all come out for a big reunion. The plan was set, so September 1, Mike and his kids and the Ramsey family showed up on Micah's doorstep ready for some fun! In all reality, none of us knew what to expect from this stay in Montana. We hadn't talked to Micah and the kids since 2010. Mike's daughter had come to see us in Wisconsin, but we hadn't seen his son since he was a baby. Our kids are all the same age, but would they all get along? Micah's kids were all grown up, freshmen and seniors in high school, and who knew how they would respond to these 10-12 year olds running around their house.Turns out the feelings of love and welcoming on this farm are palpable and it took no time at all to get comfortable. As Dusty, Mike, and I got the RV all set up, Micah had all four of our kids out on a farm tour, then jumped on the trampoline with them for about 20 minutes until his kids got home from school. All six of the kids jumped into friendship like they had all known each other forever. Literally, the kids jumped into friendship. Within an hour, these adrenaline junkies had given up on regular trampoline activities, and decided to start jumping off the roof (no, really...literally). Natalie and Jake were so great at engaging with the kids. In Banana's words, "I thought they would be like every other teenager I've ever met and only play on their phones, but they were so cool!" Seeing the three families interact together after never having met each other was...heartwarming, to say the least.
On Friday we took it easy all morning, then went to cheer on Natalie and Jake at their cross country meet. Afterwards we went to Polson, on the southern end of Flathead Lake, spent some time diving off the dock into deep clear water, and chilled on the shore for the afternoon. You might be wondering how all ten of us traveled together. Let me introduce you to Lil Buddy. Several months back, Lil Buddy came across the Helser's radar in a For Sale ad and they couldn't pass up the opportunity to own this 1988 fifteen passenger luxury van, equipped with a ladder and roof rack. The ten of us cruised around the Flathead Indian Reservation, windows wide open, enjoying the views and good company with big smiles spread across our faces. Saturday, we celebrated Mike's birthday by loading Lil' Buddy up with a rowboat and a canoe and heading out to Finley Point on Flathead Lake. Locals always know the best places, and the Helsers did not disappoint for this special occasion! Tucked between million dollar homes on the lake are small slivers of public land you wouldn't even notice if you didn't know they were there. We pulled Lil' Buddy down to the shore, unloaded boats, paddles, life jackets, lunch, swimsuits, and towels, and got ready to launch. Now, I feel like we're a pretty adventurous family, but we took the risk factor up a notch or two this day. Imagine this: ten people. All our gear. One canoe. One rowboat. The goal: row out to three tiny islands a half mile off the shore of Flathead Lake. We donned as many life jackets as we had and threw extra floatation devices (aka pool noodles) into the canoe and hoped for the best. The trip out was a little touch and go, but we all made it to the remote islands safely. (Thank you, Jesus.) Then we all had a ball! Here we were again, three former Blackhawk pilots and their families on a secluded beach. These three tiny islands are essentially piles of huge rocks covered in pine trees and shrubs. Parts of the surrounding lake are deep enough to dive in, while others are so shallow that you can walk most of the way between the islands. And so we passed our day swimming in the fairly cold water, relaxing on the pebbly beach, and watching all of our kids explore the islands together. The kids named our island "Lost Pants Island" because as we landed ashore, we found someone's pants (including photo ID, cash, credit cards) laying behind a bush. After a few hours, Ryan Spencer finally came back to retrieve them, but he sure did give us a lot to laugh at in the meantime! Eventually the kids got a wild idea to build a raft out of huge driftwood logs. They worked as a team to roll the logs out of a debris pile. They sourced a few ropes from the row boat, put their knot tying skills to good use, and successfully created a raft, christened the S.S. Rosehip. (Funny how history repeats itself.) All six of them paddled together around the islands, and could have paddled all the way to shore if it weren't for an oncoming storm that made us grown-ups a bit nervous. Sunday, before the Hendersons left for the airport, the kids organized a talent show. Everyone had to participate and it gave us a chance to see just how talented the group was. We had a lot of laughs as we found out that Dusty could *almost* guess numbers, Mike could *almost* read minds, and Micah can reach any goal he puts his mind to. The kids did magic tricks, gymnastics, sang in Gaelic, juggled knives, won staring contests, and made rose hip tea. We cracked up at different skits and were almost worried when Natalie and Jake performed a sword fight complete with fake blood as the finale. The whole weekend with the Helsers and Hendersons was perfect. Being together again was surreal and watching our kids form bonds was absolutely magical. Seeing Little Natalie and Jake all grown up and getting to know them again was...overwhelmingly special. For the grown-ups, it was like a lifetime had passed, yet no time had passed at all. We all left reluctantly, but with hearts full of gratitude for such special friendships.
Mike, thank you for initiating this weekend and flying out to Montana. Micah, Natalie, and Jake...none of us can thank you enough for your hospitality and the gift of spending time with your amazing family. Our Favorite ExperiencesWe hope you were able to read Yellowstone Part One, which set a foundation with fun facts about Yellowstone. Seeing these features in action, and in such huge abundance in a small area, is mind blowing, and truly some of the most beautiful and other worldly sights that our country has to offer. Compile that with once in a lifetime experiences and you have a perfect vacation! Artist's Point at Canyon Village
Midway and Lower Geyser BasinsIt was getting to be dinner time when we arrived at the trail to see the Grand Prismatic Spring. This is the one you see in all the Yellowstone advertisements, with vibrant colors of the rainbow ranging through the hot spring--deep blue in the center and spreading out to yellows, oranges, and reds on the edges. Arrival was a bit of a letdown. Not only was it so steamy that you couldn't see the colors, but being eye level with the huge spring was much less dramatic than the aerial views you see in photos. FOMO to the rescue! Dusty had read about a Prismatic Spring overlook you could hike to at the Fairy Falls trail head, the next stop on the loop map. We made sandwiches in the car and arrived to find the last parking spot in the lot--with a bison grazing just in front of the asphalt! By this time we had seen several male bison on the sides of roads and weren't too concerned about him. We parked, watched him graze two feet away from our front bumper while we ate dinner, and waited for him to move away so we could get out of the truck. Finally, he moved...right to the trail head, where he continued to munch on his dinner for another 20 minutes. By that time, two large groups of people were forming, waiting to enter and to leave the trail! The bison was not phased and continued his feast until he was ready to leave! Finally we were able to start our hike and got that good view of the vibrant hot springs from above! As we left the overlook trail, the sun was beginning to set. We arrived at the Lower Geyser basin to find an ambulance in the parking lot. Turns out another bison was moseying along the boardwalk and rangers had been called in for protection. Upon interviewing the rangers, they said they come mainly to monitor the people, not the bison. He escorted us and a small tour group to the boardwalk and it became increasingly clear why rangers are needed to monitor people. As the bison starred down the onlookers (clearly threatened), some old dude in a bright red sweatshirt turned his back to the bison and moved in closer for a photo op. SMH. Sometimes I just can't even begin to understand people. Eventually the ranger gave us the go ahead. This basin contained all four types of hydrothermal features, including mud pots, hot springs, fumaroles, and geysers, so we went forth! We were admiring how cool the Red Spouter fumarole was when suddenly the Fountain Geyser started going off. This geyser typically erupts every 4-7 hours, so being there when it went off was purely by chance. Even more amazingly, the bright orange ball of the setting sun lined up perfectly with the exploding water and steam so it looked almost like a roaring fire blazing out of the earth. The eruption continued for about twenty full minutes, and two other geysers, which must share the same plumbing system, danced along with the Fountain. Talk about a show! We couldn't have asked for a more perfect way to end our day! Two close encounters with two bison and a water works show just for us! Wow... The next morning, we left the house totally exhausted from the day before, but afraid we would miss out on any level of excitement if we didn't get up with the animals. As it turned out, all the animals were on vacation on Monday--all day-- so we didn't see anything except one bison on the side of the road early in the morning and a few more way out in a field later that day, as well as a few pronghorns. Sheepeater CliffAn hour and a half into our drive, we stopped for a short hike at Sheepeater Cliff. Basalt columns formed by slowly cooling lava flows created these cliffs millions of years ago. Clearly, the rocks were calling my family's name, so all three of my children decided they needed to conquer the cliff. I stood by at the bottom in case I needed to seek medical attention, but as it turned out, they all did great reaching the top, and making it down safely. Their Guardian Angels have their work cut out for them, but I'm so glad they are such steadfast protectors! Swimming at Firehole Canyon
Eating OutI can't finish this post without mentioning the food in West Yellowstone. There is a great new burger place called T.R.'s Burgers. The burgers were pretty o.k., but the fried cheese curds with huckleberry sauce was to die for. Not only that, but the restaurant is dedicated to Teddy Roosevelt, complete with a slideshow playing on a big screen with tons of fun facts and photographs about Teddy's life. The history nut in me was going ballistic! The Espresso and Ice Cream House has delicious ice cream AND bubble waffle cones that make for the best treat after a long day, and the staff is so sweet. Dusty highly recommends the huckleberry ice cream, a tradition for this area of the west! We also recommend Wild West Pizzeria and Saloon for delectable wood-fired pizza (the best I've had in a long time!) If you take your children, though, be prepared to explain why the bathroom doors are labeled "pistols" and "holsters." Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center
This post is getting long, and to us, this just seems to be the tip of the iceberg for such a fun-packed two and a half days. Yellowstone is truly a wonderland and a place everyone should see if you can make it happen. Our advice: stay longer if you can. Take two days to really enjoy the lower loop. The upper loop isn't nearly as exciting, so if you only make it to Mammoth Hot Springs, that's ok. (Side note: the upper loop was fully open after the record breaking spring floods, however, the north entrance is closed and the road through the Lamar Valley was only partially open to a limited number of people who reserved tickets on recreation.gov. If you intend to go anytime soon, be sure to check the closure statuses.) Final advice: let your FOMO take control and get to Yellowstone!
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