In 2013 our family moved to Wiesbaden, Germany, a four and a half year adventure that will always be remembered as some of the best times of our lives. Living overseas was somewhat magical, but it did present one small problem: our little army commissary only sold tiny bottles of organic maple syrup for some obnoxious price of like $13 or some nonsense like that, and real syrup supplies were otherwise non-existent. Dusty, being the problem solver he is, quickly took to the internet in search of someone who would send syrup to APO addresses. By some twist of fate, he stumbled upon Slopeside Syrup, a fairly new maple syrup company out of Vermont. The About section on the site told of the Cochran family’s mom and pop ski slope that produced family World Cup and Olympic Gold Alpine Skiing accolades. After decades of success on the slopes, a new generation of Cochran grand children were finding other ways to live off the land. Back in the day, Slopeside’s online ordering system didn’t show “APO” as a shipping option, so Dusty emailed the company, explained that he was in the Army and stationed overseas and wondered if they would be willing to ship. In no time at all, we had a half gallon of syrup in our mailbox with a message from Doug saying, “This one is on us. Thank you for your service.” To say we were appreciative is an understatement. Before long, we emailed Doug with another order request. When asked how we should pay, he told us, “Just send a check whenever you get the package.” Who does that anymore!?!? That was about ten years ago. Over the last decade, this very trusting business arrangement grew into a friendship. Emails to and from Doug always involve a little “catch up” with how life is going. He always gets us the best deals on bulk orders and shipping. It’s not uncommon for four gallons of syrup to grace our doorstep! (Yes, we go through that much syrup--and sometimes we even share.) Our family is practically religious about our Slopeside; it is a necessary staple in our pantry that we can not run out of.
For years we have talked about a family vacation to Vermont, but that trip never happened. Upon moving to New England, a visit to finally meet these long time friends became top priority! Last week we took a week to explore the Green Mountains, and fortunately, we were able to catch Doug between company trips to Texas, Massachusetts, and Kansas. Just before closing on a Friday, we met the UnTapped crew. Dakota, our 4 month old puppy, was exceptionally pleased to find dog lovers and played with the office golden retriever and the office guys while we toured the bottling facility and warehouse. We met the family and others who make the sugary magic happen. A quick visit wasn't enough time, so we made plans to have dinner with Doug. As we were headed to the restaurant, he texted and asked if we would like to come have a cookout at his place so Dakota could be more comfortable and we could just chill. This thoughtful offer made for a fantastic night (with maple soda and delicious maple coleslaw, I might add!) We had a great time and feel so blessed to have developed this friendship over the years.
Someone recently asked me what we're going to do about syrup now that we live in New England and can buy syrup in our own town--or make our own. The choice is clear though: Slopeside for life. LOL! Thank you, Doug and the Slopeside crew, for making such a quality product, but mostly for being the kind of business that people are proud to hold onto. We look forward to seeing you again soon!
0 Comments
Our kids live an enchanted life--obviously. LOL! From a young age, they were exposed to the fairly rugged, mountainous terrains of Austria, Switzerland, and Scotland. When we returned to the states, we found hiking trails in southern Maryland just didn't hold their interest. (Translate: they complained about being tired from walking a mile on flat ground when they used to climb 3+ miles in the mountains.) Turns out, they were bored and needed a challenge. Thankfully, our Cub Scout leader knew the benefits of the great outdoors and organized a program called Pike's Hikes, encouraging pack families to attend four group hikes each year. In April 2019, our Pack hiked Billy Goat Trail Section A at the C&O Canal. At the ages of 7 and 9, the U.S. terrain had finally redeemed itself in the eyes of our kiddos and this hike became a favorite. A long historyGround was broken for the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal in 1828, with a dream of improving passage to the west (Ohio) and creating easier transportation of coal. The goal was to improve on natural waterways for passage of boats pulled along a towpath by mules. Construction halted in 1850, with the canal stretching 185 miles from Washington D.C. to Cumberland, Maryland and consisting of 74 locks and lock houses, aqueducts, bridges, culverts, feeder dams, and waste weirs. The C&O quickly became obsolete as the modern railroad beat them to the finish line with the completion of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in 1852. Even so, the canal became home to workers transporting goods up and down the waterway until it was closed in 1924. Families worked and lived on the 12-foot-wide boats. Often times the father was the captain, while the mother managed children, cooked, and kept things clean. The children, unable to attend school except in the winter, tended to the mules and helped with other chores. For a short time in history, this canal was a way of life. Billy Goat Trail, Section AOur National Parks Service snagged one of the most beautiful scenic landscapes in the D.C. area when C&O Canal became a National Park in 1971. If you're a hiker, you won't want to miss the views--and the fun--on Billy Goat Trail. The trail has three sections. Section A is considered the most difficult. Visitors arrive at the Great Falls Tavern Visitors Center (be sure to put the right address in the GPS or you might end up on the wrong side of the river.) You can brush up on the area history in the small museum and, if you're lucky, you'll be able to take a canal boat tour. (You can check the schedule here. We've never been there during operating hours, so if you do the boat tour, please share your experience!) We've hiked the the 4.7 mile Billy Goat Trail Section A five times. Over the years, we've made some wonderful memories with the best of friends. But, each hike, I am reminded that it's more difficult than I remembered! All Trails lists it as moderate, and it is, but the whole trail is rocky, with several places where you must climb, jump across, or drop from boulders to get through the trail. For about three and a half miles, you'll need to be very aware of your footing, wear good shoes, and be in good physical condition. (The first quarter mile and last mile is an easy peasy walk on the flat, gravel tow path.) The hike is not recommended for young children. However, last year my bestie took her 3 year old on the trail and she did great (with a little help on steep parts), but it should be noted that her little girl is part mountain goat and her mom did 42 miles of the AT in two days, so they are experienced hikers with plenty of training.) Similarly, our scout group attended with at least one kindergartener, and Banana was just seven the first time she went. Parents can use their own discretion, but note that every year there are rescues on the trail, either due to injuries or falling into the water. So if you bring children, monitor them closely--or threaten them with the possibility of death if they don't stay on the trail. ;-) If you're up for a little more distance, or just want great views without the harsh terrain, we recommend taking the short Overlook Trail, which is mostly easy boardwalk with stunning scenery of the rushing Potomac River. Spring is a great time to walk along the towpath looking for turtles and frogs and toads, and bird watching. (The towpath is also good for "people watching"--you'll see LOTS of them. It's a very popular trail for walkers and bikers alike, so listen closely for biker bells.) You can also check out Great Falls Park, affiliated with NPS, located just across the Patuxent River on the Virginia side.
Steadfast. Strong. Beautiful. Loving. Our Lady Liberty has stood in the New York Harbor for nearly 140 years. She has been a welcoming angel to immigrants fighting their way to our shores, escaping tyranny in search of a better opportunities. She embodies an ideal our country strives to live up to, and nudges us on a path towards righteousness when our claims of freedom aren't backed by our actions. Born out of friendship, she peers out over the Atlantic, reminding us of what is pure in this world. Staring up at her colossal tarnished-copper frame, one can't help but feel a sense of pride, wonder, and a quiet calming of peace. She is magnificent. In 2017, before we moved back to the United States from Germany, we did a big unit study on American symbols. The kids were young, but many of the things we learned about the Statue of Liberty stuck with them and, even though NYC was not high on our list of places to visit, we always thought that climbing Lady Liberty would be a great adventure. She did not disappoint. Liberty Enlightening the World: Fun Facts
Visiting the StatueGoing to the Statue of Liberty isn't something you do on a whim; it takes plenty of advanced planning. Tickets to the island sell out quickly during high tourist times and reservations to the pedestal and crown sell out months in advance. Visitors will need to visit the National Parks Service website for up-to-date information and for the link to Statue City Cruises, which is the only cruise line to take visitors to the island, as opposed to just around. You can purchase tickets to the pedestal or the crown (both add on features) when you book your cruise time. Tickets were very reasonably priced, costing just $75 for our family of four, which included boat tickets to Liberty Island, Ellis Island, and back to the mainland, plus entrance to the crown and pedestal, and the museums on both islands. We promise: that's hands down the absolute best value for your dollar that you'll get in New York City! Aside from purchasing tickets in advance, you'll also want to read all the fine print on the website. Security to the island is much like airport security and there is a long list of unapproved items. To visit the crown, you'll be even more restricted. (I wasn't even allowed to bring my small fanny pack.) Lockers are available on the island for a $.25 deposit (if you have a quarter). In general, reading all the information ahead of time allows you to enjoy the visit without frustrations or any unexpected loss of personal items. One thing is for sure: she is mesmerizing and the true definition of "awesome," truly evoking a sense of "wow" as you stare up at her. For decades she welcomed families to this country, calming their fears after long journeys. In her resolute face, they saw hope, promise; freedom. It's easy to feel that anticipation and overwhelming sense of gratitude just being in her presence. Entrance to the pedestal is not handicap accessible, however, there is a service elevator in the pedestal, which allows you to skip 176 steps to the viewing platform. If you're in good physical condition, though, don't miss the opportunity to go to the crown. You will go through additional security to make your way up 162 steps on the gleaming, narrow, spiral staircase leading right up into her noggin! In the days following, I thought I must be withering away to nothing in my "old age" because my legs hurt so bad, but when Banana complained that her legs hurt too, I was reassured that those steps really do take a toll on a person! So definitely be prepared! If you know us, you're well aware that New York City isn't quite our speed. We spent another day going to see the 9-11 Memorial (very emotional), found the Ghostbuster's Headquarters, strolled around Times Square and Rockefeller Center, ate pizza at two of the top pizza shops in Manhattan, played at FAO Schwarz, and (surprise!) tracked down the LEGO store on Fifth Avenue (which was AWESOME!) NYC was exactly what we expected it to be (except it cost quite a bit more!), but going to the Statue of Liberty was definitely a highlight. If you ever find yourself in New York and have the stamina to get to the crown, you won't regret it.
We took the month of December off from exciting adventures and devoted our time to doing school work, diving back into extracurriculars and fun with friends, enjoying some holiday traditions, and a little bit of relaxing after months of going strong on the road and trails. But, it didn’t take long for the National Parks Service to start calling our names.
Brickhead was inspired by the heart wrenching battle saga, with its bombs bursting in air and prisoners at sea keeping an eye on the flag to see if our country had won. He was exceptionally interested in British cannons that focused fire at the flagstaff at Fort McHenry while Americans sacrificed their lives to keep the flag standing. The dramatization was a sure depiction of ultimate patriotism, but—did it really happen? Can you believe what you see on YouTube? These are the questions that make homeschooling the best! A quick internet search showed that Fort HcHenry National Monument and Historic Shrine was just an hour away and would be just the place to find out! It was an exceptionally foggy and rainy New Year's Eve when we set out to see the fort. Fog was forecasted to dissipate before we arrived, but lo and behold, it seemed to get worse throughout the day. No need to let a little rain ruin our fun (and learning) though! To some, the War of 1812 is the “Forgotten War.” How many of you can say you remember why it was fought and who participated? To understand this war, you have to transport yourself back to 1812. The USA was a new country. Native Americans still lived on much of the land, albeit being forced off unwillingly. We already claimed the Northwest Territory (what is now Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Wisconsin, and part of Minnesota). Florida was Spanish territory and the British owned much of Canada. The Louisiana Purchase was being explored and mapped and was still considered "The Great Desert," not suitable for farming. Britain, no doubt still upset over losing the colonies to a new army, imposed a blockade on U.S. maritime trade, crippling the economy. Frustrated with blockades and hoping to expand the blossoming country, the U.S. fought back. Summarizing the events of the war here wouldn't do justice to the many battles that took place, nor to the soldiers and civilians who laid their lives on the line to sustain our young country. What did the war accomplish and who won? That’s hard to say. Eventually the Treaty of Ghent ended the war in 1815. Neither side accomplished the goals they set out to do. The U.S. didn't expand north into Canada as it had hoped. It did, however, renew a sense of pride and patriotism for our new country who stood up to the military powerhouse of the world and won. For Natives, it was tragic, as it symbolized a termination to prior treaties made with England, and marked the end of any British support against the expanding states. I recommend this documentary to find out more. Every American should go to Fort McHenry if they get to Baltimore. The visitor center is very well done with a stirring documentary of the battle and the writing of Francis Scott Key's poem that became our national anthem. After the documentary, the movie screen rolls up to reveal a window overlooking the fort. The Star Spangled Banner plays, while visitors stand with their hands on their hearts and a renewed sense of what that song means for our country. After some more education from the indoor exhibits, visitors head outside to tour the fort and learn about its use in both the War of 1812 and the Civil War. We highly recommend having kids participate in the Junior Ranger program to enhance learning. So, what's the verdict? Was the YouTube dramatization true to fact? As it turns out, it's not. Of the 1,000 men defending the fort that night, only four soldiers were killed and 28 were injured in battle. The Garrison Flag (now on display at the Smithsonian), which measured 30 x 42 feet (the largest flag ever made to that date), was taken down at night and stored during the battle. And trust me--after seeing a small scale replica of the flagpole, there is no way any man or group of men could hold it upright while getting shot at. So, contrary to the YouTube narration with over 20 million views, no Americans were killed as they held the flag pole upright during the bombing. Nevertheless, I can imagine that Key and prisoners at sea were greatly relieved to see the flag being raised in the morning. Dramatization makes for great storytelling, so Brickhead still says he prefers the YouTube version. Go figure. The whole fort was a great experience, and I really enjoyed the exhibit of the role the Star Spangled Banner has played in our country over time. The song became our national anthem in 1916, but even then it was controversial. Critics questioned the truth behind the statement "land of the free," or suggested that another song of peace and prayer like "America the Beautiful" would better suit our anthem. Others stand for that first note and are overwhelmed with an immense sense of pride in their country that moves them to tears. For some it's a way to honor those who have served or given the ultimate sacrifice while protecting our country. Like any good poem, the words have different meaning to each participant. What does the Star Spangled Banner mean to you?
One thing is for sure: this trip across the United States was a meaningful, educational experience that our kids will always remember. I'm so proud of their adaptability on the road and their following insight about our country and its history. The last few weeks we've been reviewing our adventures under a different lens, comparing what we've seen to patriotic songs, poems, and artwork. The kids illustrated what the song America the Beautiful means to them now that they've seen it (see Brickhead's colored pencil illustration above--all freehand.) He chose memories from his favorite place, the Badlands in South Dakota, for his poetry assignment. Back in the BadlandsBack in the Badlands the rocks stand tall, A barren wasteland, so it was called. A place once feared by both whites and their native ‘guides’, Now is admired by tourists’ eyes. Any corner that you turn there lies more rocks to climb, So up and up I scurry, away from ground and towards the open sky! They also researched the history of the Star Spangled Banner and learned about the American flag. He loves to tell action stories, so here's one for you: What does the American flag mean to me? by Brickhead Francis Key Scott strode up the gangway on to the deck of the British ship, which was sailing a few miles from the United States border. He had been instructed by President James Madison to negotiate for the release of the American prisoners who were being held captive in the barge. He found the captain of the ship. The captain reached terms for the prisoners’ release but also had information for the unexpecting Francis Key.
“We will release these prisoners,” He started. “But it will not matter when it’s over.” He pointed to a hoard of little dots on horizon. “That there is the entire British navy. They are poised to strike Fort Henry and will arrive in the next two hours unless otherwise delayed. They will not stop until that flag that you hold so dear is on the ground. You will belong to England once again.” Francis was infuriated. “You can’t do that!” He hollered. “That fort is filled with not only men, but women and children, too! You’ll kill them all!” The navy captain smirked calmly. “We have allowed them a way to live,” He said. “If they lower that foolish flag of theirs to the ground. If they perish then it is of their own fault.” Francis Key grimaced. “A true American Christian will sooner die on his feet than live on his knees.” The captain scoffed. “Then only they can claim fault for their deaths.” He said. Francis Key turned his back on the British admiral and started down the stairs to below deck so he could notify the prisoners. He stared at the starved men, bound in shackles and nailing at the walls of their prison cells. He only wished he could help them. Once he had made the situation clear to all of them he vowed he would report progress of the one thing they wanted to know; Did the flag remain waving? Within the next hour or so dusk had came, and darkness was setting in. The once distant fleet of British warships was much clearer now. They lingered merely a mile or two off shore. Francis Key stared coldly at the merciless army. He braced for the words that would begin the bombardment of Ft. McHenry. Ready… Aim… FIRE! The words rang through the air as hundred of cannon balls rained through the sky. A deafening boom thundered from shore as the first cannon ball struck ground. More followed. The glowing fires illuminated the crumbling fort as screams echoed through the air. Men were shouting on the ground in attempt to evacuate the fort. The cannon fire continued showering the fort but the now tattered flag stayed upright. “Focus all fire on the flagpole.” One of the commanding officers ordered. “We mustn’t stop until it lies on the ground like the useless piece of cloth that it is.” The cannons re-poised themselves to aim at the flag. All the while Francis Scott Key was scurrying to tell the prisoners what was happening before the chaos continued. FIRE! Cannon balls were tearing through the sky once more. Each one landed a direct hit at the flagpole, and yet it remained standing. At last, after several rounds of useless attempt to bring down the flag, the British were forced into surrender. After being allowed back ashore along with the other prisoners Francis Scott went to investigate the crumbling Fort McHenry. He gasped when he saw what had been holding the flag at such an awkward angle. Hundreds of dead bodies of his fallen comrades were lying around the pole. Men who had died for their country, knowing they wouldn’t live to see their victory. Later, in his notebook, Francis Scott Key wrote the worlds that would be remembered to this day: Oh, say can you see by the dawn's early light What so proudly we hailed at the twilight's last gleaming? Whose broad stripes and bright stars thru the perilous fight, O'er the ramparts we watched were so gallantly streaming? And the rocket's red glare, the bombs bursting in air, Gave proof through the night that our flag was still there. Oh, say does that Star - Spangled Banner yet wave O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave? Even now we sing this song and honor this flag to honor those who gave their lives for our country: Fifty stars for fifty states… Thirteen stripes for the thirteen original colonies… Red for valor and bloodshed… White for purity and innocence… And blue for perseverance and justice. To me this flag and this song stand for honor to those who died so we could be happy, the ones who perished for our country, the ones who stood up for the American way, and the ones who offered what we have today: Liberty and Justice for All. After traveling our beautiful country, patriotic songs and poems have a whole new meaning. Since we've been home (well, back near Calvert County in a different house), we've been reliving memories under a different lens. Here are some of Banana's projects from the last week. She analyzed the lyrics in the song America the Beautiful and illustrated what the song meant to her. Each state includes one of her favorite memories from our beautiful United States. She read the poetry book My America: A Poetry Atlas of the United States, then wrote her own poem about an experience she had at the Sand Caves in Kanab, Utah. Sand CavesClimbing up a sand hill so slick Hard to find hold where our feet don't slip. I must admit it was worth the climb, a dark cave with arches of light. A perfect place for animals to hide. The cars down below honk so loud As they see us dance nice and proud. The down was like a slide. We made it back to the car. The steepness caused no scar, The adventure proved who we are. What does the American Flag mean to me?The American flag stands for our nation. It has 13 stripes for the 13 original colonies: Delaware, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Georgia, Connecticut, Massecursettes, Maryland, South Carolina, New Hampshire, Virginia, New York, North Carolina, and Rhode Island. The flag also has 50 stars for all the states in America. After 9-11, everyone went and bought American flags and put it on the front of their store or on their front porch so everyone knew that they were American and they will use all their strength to fight for their country. Even people who lived in America but weren't American had flags to show their support for America. To me, the American flag stands for how strong America and its people are. We will fight for our country and we will not surrender. We will keep going until we die. The flag has been held through almost all the wars we have had and it has never and will never hit the ground. We will carry it through every war and we will remain free as long as our flag stands. Our flag will also wave in honor of those who got injured, disabled, or died and those who served to save our country. We hope that the later warriors will survive in later fights and they will save our freedom and hope in times of need. Our flag makes us strong and always will. Our flag will always stand strong and will never be replaced. Banana would love to hear your feedback. Feel free to leave a comment!
Whew! It's been a long twelve days. I've got a lot to catch up on, so here's a quick summary: We have so much to be thankful for this year, so it was fitting that we were able to go back to Ohio to spend Thanksgiving with our families in the place where "we" began. We parked at a friend's house and spent the week going between Dusty's family and mine, taking care of business, and preparing for the next stage. You should know that our RV was amazing throughout this whole trip. Grand Design, you made a good one! But...literally as soon as we pulled into my friends' driveway to park for the week, the gears in the right jack went out and the leg would not support the weight of the RV. Thankfully, we were home! Our friends came to the rescue with a jack, mom came to pick us up since we couldn't get the truck unhitched, my stepbrother (of sorts) lent a jack stand, and Amazon came to the rescue with parts, which were delivered on time! My amazingly talented good-at-everything-he-does husband had the thing fixed in no time. Until the part delivery, we stayed with family. (No jack means no leveling. No leveling means no slides, and no slides means no heat. Winter means cold, so we had to blow the lines and do some other unexpected finagling, but all worked out and we were so grateful that the rig decided to break in a space where we had help!) Family always comes to the rescue! Back home, we played games, went shopping (yay for winter clothes that fit the kids!), made hot chocolate bombs with cousins (courtesy of Mimi), hung out with the grandparents and Great Grandma and Aunts and Uncles, saw family for Thanksgiving dinners, and we even got to spend a little time with my dad, who we haven't seen in over two years. The week flew by pretty quickly and left us all in a whirl. So what's this about Southern Maryland? I'm writing today from our new temporary home: an Airbnb in Upper Marlboro, Maryland. "WHAT?!" you might ask. That was our initial reaction, too. Yes, we're back for four months before we head out for our next adventure. Our plan when we left Maryland five months ago was to do a Skill Bridge program (CSP in military lingo, but kind of like an internship) with a company out of New Jersey for these four months. (We had planned to live in Pennsylvania during that time.) That fell through when Dusty accepted a position with another company last month. Since the military still owns us until the retirement date of March 31, we're back at JB Andrews. We consider it a blessing in disguise because we're now able to take these four months and spend time with dear friends. The kids will resume scouts and we're hoping to get them into other activities for the short time we're here. When we found out we were coming back, it didn't take long to decide we should rent an Airbnb for the winter. The RV is great, but even a four season rig just isn't built to withstand winters. Between condensation on windows (mold threat), the worry of pipes freezing, and blowing through propane, it just wasn't worth the work. We found a great little fully furnished rental right in the middle of our last two Maryland homes. We unpacked our RV (WOW! We didn't realize how much stuff we fit in there!) and got it all ready for winter right in our rental's driveway. The owner has been so nice and accommodating. The house is perfect, with a beautiful large yard, and our stay here is looking promising. The kids are LOVING having more space to themselves, and Brickhead fully enjoys being able to sit up in bed (since he couldn't in his bunk.) **Note: if you're local and know the Webers, don't mention anything to the kids. We're hoping to surprise them, but between after school commitments and sick kids, our timing just hasn't worked out yet. They'll be devastated if they learn from someone else that we're back. So, keep it on the DL. And what's next?Some of you know that Dusty took part in a marathon interview process over this trip. Back in June, he applied for a position with Liberty Mutual's flight department. He had two phone interviews over the course of July and August, then flew to Bedford, Massachusetts for an in-person interview in September, followed by a flight simulator trial in Savannah, Georgia in October. The company went above and beyond to make sure they were hiring the right pilot for the job, and Dusty was super impressed with their organization. He accepted the position with a caveat that he'll be able to meet the LiMu Emu. (Just kidding, but the kids feel that's a requirement.) Everything so far seems like the right fit, so in April, we'll be moving to New Hampshire!
I know...New Hampshire has cold winters. We are aware. But the other eight months of the year, New England could just be the perfect place for the Ramseys! We've never lived in (hummm...or visited...) New Hampshire, but if you know us, you know we're always up for an adventure, and we always find a way to bloom where we're planted. We're excited to give it a try and even more excited to have another part of the United States to discover! So, for all those who are following, The Ramsey Way isn't over yet! Thank you for coming along with us on this journey. One thing is for sure: the drive through the flat American midwest can get a bit boring. If you're traveling I-70 between St. Louis and Indianapolis, we have a stop for you! Right smack in the middle of the two cities is Casey, Illinois, a small town with big things! This little town is home to twelve Guinness Book certified World's Largest things plus lots of other BIG fun! Travelers can find a scavenger hunt map on their website bigthingssmalltown.com, and enjoy an hour or two searching out the over twenty BIG things throughout the town. Most are found within a few city blocks. Plus there are lots of cute shops and restaurants for a lunch or dinner stop. According to their website FAQ's, the man behind the idea of Big Things Small Town is Jim Bolin, a local business owner. Born and raised in Casey, he felt like he owed something to the community that had given him so much. Most of the materials used are recycled items like old telephone poles, damaged pipe, or old oil tanks. If you're ever in the area, check it out! Situated at the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, St. Louis was founded in 1764 as a trading hub. In its early days, it was a major fur trading post between the French and Indians. After Thomas Jefferson's purchase of Louisiana territory in 1803, Meriwether Lewis, William Clark and their crew said "good-bye" to the known as they left the streets of St. Louis to explore western territory in search of the Pacific Ocean. Their discoveries opened the gates to westward expansion, with all roads beginning in St. Louis. By the mid-1800's, as the belief in "Manifest Destiny" peaked, homesteaders headed to California, Oregon, and Utah to fulfill their calling from God. All stopped in St. Louis to stock up on supplies for the long journey west. St. Louis became the Gateway to the West. In 1935, Franklin D. Roosevelt signed an executive order to create a national historic park to honor the roots of these westward pioneers. The land included the St. Louis Courthouse where the pivotal Dred Scott case was tried. Forty blocks of old buildings were leveled to create a memorial, but it wasn't until 1947 that a nationwide competition challenged architects to design a monument that would commemorate the important role that the city played in westward expansion. Eero Saarinen's simple steel Gateway Arch was the favorite among the 172 entries. Construction of this one-of-a-kind structure began in 1963. Today visitors have plenty of options for experiencing the Arch. The outdoor park is always open to the public, and the museum inside the Visitors Center, which walks you through a timeline of St. Louis's history, is free. We chose the combo tickets (discounted with our National Parks Pass) for the tram to the top of the arch and the movie. You can also opt for a riverboat cruise ride. We almost skipped the movie, but I'm glad we didn't. Cinematographers paid as close attention to filming details as the engineers who put the actual arch together. The thirty minute movie tells the story of the remarkable construction of the arch from blueprint to locking in the last piece. Without this, we wouldn't have even begun to understand the complexity of building this 630 foot tall by 630 foot wide stainless steel structure. Being able to see what all those workers had to go through on a daily basis and the amount of problem solving and engineering that went into building this architectural marvel was quite inspiring.
We hadn't planned on going through St. Louis on our way back, but the image of the Arch kept coming up in our travels and it was calling Brickhead's name. It was neat to culminate our travels in the place where it all began. Our journey has had a lot of focus on the history of Native Americans vs. Pioneers, and we've seen quite a few preserved homes of the original homesteaders, so it's neat to think that the owner of those homes would have started their journey in what was our gateway back to the east. If you get to St. Louis, we recommend the stop, and be sure to take the tram to the top!
On Halloween night, 2010, Dusty and I were set for trick-or-treaters in our cul-de-sac home in Kempner, Texas. Brickhead was only nine months old then, and dressed as the cutest little froggy, ready to help hand out candy. We waited and waited for a good 45 minutes, perched on our hilltop watching very sparse groups of costumed little ones pass our street without a thought. That's when we decided that if trick-or-treaters wouldn't come to us, we would go to them! We walked around our neighborhood and soon found out that every street was dead! No one was out! Suddenly, a woman came running from her porch, waving her arms, followed by her husband, both welcoming us to come over and take all their candy because they had also anticipated a larger crowd. We talked to the man and woman for over an hour, getting to know each other. They immediately adopted us as their children (since our own family was far away), and from that trick-or-treating night, a family was born. Grandma Mary and Grandpa Gary truly did become our family away from home during our four years stationed at Ft. Hood. Looking back, there wasn't much of our lives that they weren't involved in. They got to know all our family and friends and we knew theirs. We had Papa Murphy's Pizza parties every Monday together. Gary strummed "happy birthday" on his guitar for Brickhead's first birthday. They were at the hospital soon after Banana was born. The stepping stone with the kids' footprints still sits in Mary's garden, and the family quilt that Mary made for Banana still hangs on her bedroom wall (well, when we have a house anyway). In the last ten years, Dusty has been able to stop in a few times when he's been in the area for work, but the kids and I haven't been back to their birth state since we left in 2012. Being in the American Southwest meant we had better make a stop to central Texas and see Grandma Mary and Grandpa Gary! Watching her swing open that front door and yell, "get your butt in here," was the best greeting ever! For three days, we enjoyed dinners together, including Papa Murphy's pizza night. Grandma's desserts solidified that, if the kids didn't remember her before, they'll certainly remember her now! Being there felt so good; Like no time had passed--aside from the children being much bigger. Waco Mammoth National MonumentDuring our stay, we revisited the Waco Mammoth Site, which became a National Monument in 2015. In 1978, two men noticed huge bones in the river bed and reported it to Baylor University. Since then, Baylor, the City of Waco, the Waco Mammoth Foundation, and now the National Parks Service have worked to study and preserve the bones of approximately 20 Columbian Mammoths. About 65,000 years ago, a nursery herd (females and multiple juveniles) mysteriously died here, followed by at least three more mammoths, including a male, 51,000 years ago. This is one of the top research sites in the United States for these extinct animals. I was surprised that not much had changed in the last ten years, aside from differing ideas on how the animals died. For a long time, it was hypothesized that these animals died in a flash flood, but as soil samples have been analyzed, it seems the cause of death may have aligned more with drought--possibly poison from drinking water with algae. A paleontologist has recently been hired for the site, so I'm interested to find out what new discoveries can be made. The site is a reminder that you can't rush science, and I respect that they've halted excavation until science can catch up to the needs of the discovery. If you haven't been, and you are near the area, I highly recommend going. I remember being completely in awe the first time we went. There is another mammoth site in Hot Springs, South Dakota with even more mammoth fossils. I desperately wanted to go during our time in the Black Hills, but since we got COVID, we missed it. (Another excuse to make it out west another time!) On the way back we stopped at Buc-ee's, which I was not aware was a "thing." Apparently the awesomeness of Buc-ee's is all over the internet and I have completely missed it. We had a little fun at this super-sized gas station and convenience store. (My husband is hilarious, BTW.) One thing is for sure: a lot in Central Texas has changed. Copperas Cove now has a bypass and loads more commerce has come into the once sleepy little town. Neighborhoods have popped up; nice neighborhoods have gone down. Being back in our old neighborhood was a little surreal for me. Our old house now has a barn and a bunch of chickens in the backyard, but the split rail fence that was Dusty's pride and joy is gone. We were only away for a decade, but I hardly recognized the place. Change is inevitable, but it's nice to know that some relationships stay constant. Thank you to Mary and Gary for such a wonderful visit! We hope that our next time together isn't such a long time away!
In 1947, rancher Mac Brazel found some conspicuous wreckage on his farm. He took some of the scrap to the local authorities to report. What followed was a frenzy of activity. The materials had never been seen in this world before. Newspapers started publishing that a flying saucer (now known as a UFO) had crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. It wasn't long before the United States Air Force became involved. Wreckage materials were confiscated and secretly rushed to Wright Patterson AFB, and any eye witnesses were "highly advised" to never talk about it again. News agencies began reporting that the wreckage was nothing but a "weather balloon," while new conspiracies swarmed that it wasn't a weather balloon at all, but some kind of new technology being used to spy on Japan or Russia, which would explain all the secrecy and threats made to the media. Was the wreckage truly from another solar system? Did the government cover it up to maintain a sense of comfort among earthly citizens? It took a few decades to openly discuss the flying saucer again, but these days the city of Roswell maintains that the wreckage on the Brazel farm was, in fact, alien. In addition to the wreckage, eye witness accounts suggest that three child-sized, non-human bodies were also removed from the crash site--one of which was still alive. The possibility alone peaks enough interest to keep this town rolling with numerous museums and tourist stops, photo opportunities, paintings, sculptures and paraphernalia. Roswell is a kitschy tourist trap, and we totally took the bait in our three hour visit. We began our adventure in the visitor center, where we picked up a map, doned alien sunglasses, and got our FREE photo taken with the city's mascots. Then it was on to the International UFO Museum, which is the leading museum in Roswell--so you know it has to be good! Complete with a research library, this museum includes eyewitness accounts from military personnel, law enforcement, and medical examiners, as well as a timeline of the discovery, newspaper articles, and sworn affidavits by media sources that were threatened to keep the flying saucer under wraps. If that's not convincing enough, displays document other reports of UFO's throughout modern day USA and proof of extraterrestrial encounters left from the ancients, such as petroglyphs from around the world, the Nazca Lines in Peru, and artwork found in Egyptian pyramids. If you were convinced before that extraterrestrial activities did not exist on Earth, there is a good chance you might be changing your mind by the time you leave the museum! Next, we were off to Alien Zone, Area 51, a 15-20 minute stop where visitors can pose with aliens for one-of-a-kind photo ops. A quick google search tells me this exhibit was designed by artist and pastor, Randy Reeves, in 1998. My hunch is that the place hasn't been cleaned since then, either. Thick layers of dust and moldy water damage on the carpeting left all of us feeling a bit choked up after just a few minutes. Any longer than the 15 minute exposure would likely have lead to health hazards. But we did get some fun pics! Lastly, Brickhead caught sight of BrickTown, an Alien Attack LEGO experience with over 250,000 bricks on display. Can't keep the kid away from LEGO. It was here that we decided Roswell did have aliens. Real aliens. Have you seen the movie Men In Black where aliens inhabit human bodies or human body look-alikes? The guy at the front desk, dressed in Star Trek clothing, who couldn't make eye contact, and repeated directions in an almost robotic voice was 100% alien. After thinking about it, we are pretty sure that the disengaged woman running Area 51 had also been hijacked. Kitschy or not, Roswell was a fun little town. I mean, who wouldn't consider aliens on every business wall, window, and shelf a bit exciting? I'm not sure if it was the UFO Museum or the alien employees that convinced us, but we're all in agreement: We believe.
The next morning, Dusty and I got up to watch the sunrise. (Is anyone else laughing? Because I don't get up to watch the sunrise.) We would have had the perfect view, had it been a nice sunrise. Instead, it was pretty immemorable, so we decided to clean the truck. At 6:20 in the morning, y'all. For an hour and a half. For real. That happened. White SandsThe area of White Sands used to be buried under the Permian Sea. Millions of years ago, when the sea retreated, it left behind deep layers of gypsum, or hydrated calcium sulphate. As plates shifted, the mountains rose and took this gypsum with them. Over thousands of years, water has eroded this white mineral back into the valley below, where it essentially becomes "stuck" in a geologic bowl, somewhat held together by groundwater below. What makes this place remarkable isn't just the 275 square miles of white sand, but the way the surface sand shifts with the wind. Sand dunes move up to 35 feet per year. Plants and animals have adapted over time to survive in this harsh environment. Yucca plants have a tendency to grow taller as they struggle to stay above the sand. When the dune moves past them, they'll topple over from being so top heavy. The yucca pictured on the left likely has other leaves buried several feet below. The cottonwood (center) is about to be consumed by the dune. Hopefully the leaves peeking through the top will be able to sustain the tree below the dune. Right is a sumac that has developed deep, dense roots to both get water from down below and keep the leaves above the dune. The water in these roots permeates into the sand, turning it into a hard pedestal that becomes homes for animals and insects. When the dune moves on, the pedestal is left behind. We spent some time in the visitors center working on Junior Ranger books, then went on a nature hike. Mostly, we didn't find a whole lot to do at White Sands except the one thing everyone told us we had to do: sled! It was kind of bizarre sledding down white hills that weren't cold, wearing shorts and t-shirts! Overall, we had a great day, but warn other visitors that there just isn't a whole lot to do at this park. Even the ranger told us that once you stop at one dune, you've kind of seen all of them. I'm curious to know if any of you have been, and if so, what did you find most interesting? And where did you stay? Is there more to see and do in a bordering city that isn't Alamogordo?
There is a part of our past that mainstream American history education washes over. In the American southwest, this history screams to be told. Artwork left on cliff walls, pottery fragments scattered on the desert floor, ruins of well-architected communities, homes tucked into cliff alcoves, and remnants of roads and irrigation systems all show proof of a large community of people that archeologists have grouped into "Ancient Puebloans." All of these artifacts shout "We were here." National parks are doing better about including the voice of modern day Puebloans in videos and visitor center displays, but throughout our travels, I found myself repeating, "I wonder what a native would have to say about this." Taos Pueblo is a modern day Pueblo dedicated to preserving traditions of the past and teaching others about their persevering culture. In this unique village, the Taos people stand up to tell the world, "we are still here." The Taos have lived in this location for 1,000 years. (Let that sink in by recognizing that the United States of America is less than 250 years old.) Within these walls are 35 to 150 people (depending on the time of the year) who honor their tribal traditions by living in their ancestral homes with no running water, electricity, or other modern conveniences. They speak their tribal language, and schools in the Pueblo only teach in Tiwa. (Still many of them are fluent in English from attending grade level schools and higher education off the reservation). Throughout the year they invite outsiders into their community to learn about their proud history, take part in holidays and festivals, and experience what life is like in the pueblo. The people are welcoming, but also stress that visitors are entering their homes--not a living history museum-- and should behave accordingly. Photos are not allowed to be taken of community members unless permission is given, and there are some areas where no photos are allowed. A tribal member gives guests a twenty minute tour upon arrival, and afterwards guests can roam the public areas of the Pueblo, shopping for crafts and native food, and getting to know the people. Many of the inhabitants open their homes for visitors to shop for jewelry, pottery, and other crafts, as well as fry bread, Indian tacos, and oven bread baked in community ovens. One creative gentleman has developed a love for good coffee, so he recently opened a small coffee shop, which he runs off a battery that he takes out nightly to charge. When we arrived, he had only been open for three days and it was certainly a hit! He uses fresh herbs and ingredients, like mixing his own chai recipe and adding sage to cafe mochas. Dusty and Banana had a beautiful tea/lemonade combo. About the homesEach home is made out of adobe, earth mixed with water and straw and poured into forms or made into sun-dried bricks. Many of the homes here date back 700 years. The adobe walls are several feet thick. The flat roofs are made of tree trunks and covered with packed dirt. Twice a year, families come together to maintain their homes by replastering the adobe bricks with thick layers of mud, just like their grandparents did before them. Inside, the walls are washed with white earth (gypsum from the nearby mountains) to help reflect the light from windows and doors, which are a modern addition to the pueblo homes. In ancient times, entryways would be on the roof and only accessed by ladder. Throughout the village, many of the doorways are painted blue or red. Red keeps the bad spirits out and blue lets the good spirits in. In each store, you can find bundles of cedar and sage, and within fireplaces, pinion pine is burned in the winter. The fragrance is calming, uplifting, and just all kinds of incredible! In each shop we went in, we had meaningful (and often long) conversations with the artists and home owners. To me, each conversation was special, and I left feeling honored and blessed to have spent the day there. A tough historyThe Taos Pueblo people have always had to fight to keep their land and traditions. Pre-1600's, enemy tribes would raid them for resources. In the late 1600's the Spanish invaded with intentions to turn the Pueblo people into Catholics, tricking them into slave labor and punishing them-even by death- if they didn't conform to European beliefs and customs. The St. Jerome Church was built in 1619. In the Pueblo Revolt, the tribe successfully pushed Spaniards out of their territory and the church was destroyed in 1680. After 12 years, the Spaniards re-took the land and built another church on the same sight. Centuries later, the U.S. was at war with Mexico and Native Americans were desperately trying to defend their way of life. An attack on American forces caused retaliation that still scars this pueblo today. While Puebloan men, women, and children sought sanctuary inside the church, Americans bombed it repeatedly with cannon fire, destroying the church and the people inside. The ruins stand today in the center of a cemetery. During Spanish rule, the People found ways to remain true to themselves by blending the Catholic faith and their own traditions. St. Jerome Church was rebuilt in 1850 in another location and is still used today, as approximately 90% of the Puebloan Indians practice the Catholic faith. The Taos Puebloans are a proud people. They've stood up through the test of time, reminding people that they won't be going away. In 1970, after hard work from tribal chiefs, 48,000 acres of mountain land was returned to their People after being taken by the U.S. Government for National Forest Land. Only tribal members are allowed on this property, which is guarded by warchiefs.
As a sovereign nation, they welcome visitors into their village to learn about their history and traditions, but rightfully guard their privacy with a fine balance. I, personally, am honored by the opportunity to be a guest in their home and encourage others to make the trip, too. As Americans, it's our responsibility to learn about and respect the true history of our country and the often forgotten People who were here long before us and, most importantly, are still here. Can I admit that when we started this trip, New Mexico was hardly on my radar? Fortunately, our nephew moved to Los Alamos a few months ago, so the state begged for attention, and we're so glad it did! We stayed at Santa Fe Skies RV Park, with beautiful views and fun sculptures throughout the campground. Each day was filled with the perfect mix of visiting and sightseeing. Here are a few of the things we did while touring the area. Manhattan Project NHP and Bradbury MuseumBack in August 1939, the most famous physicist in the world, Albert Einstein, wrote a letter to President Franklin D. Roosevelt warning him that new discoveries in nuclear fission might lead to the development of weapons of mass destruction and that intelligence suggested that Germany's top scientists were experimenting with this technology. By 1943, the U.S. government had enforced eminent domain over the area of Los Alamos and set up a secret laboratory for the sole purpose of engineering a nuclear bomb. The 75,000+ scientists, family members, and support staff lived in ramshackle houses, which were often built in a single day, while others lived in tents. Many of them were unaware of the top secret, world-changing scientific discovery that was unfolding. This facility was so highly classified that all mail (which was monitored) went in and out of a P.O. Box in Santa Fe and employees were not allowed to divulge their location to anyone. The town of Los Alamos is built on this history, and the Manhattan Project National Historical Park Visitor Center is a great place to start your learning journey. There you can meet with a Ranger or volunteer who explains the beginning of the town and life for its WWII era inhabitants. From there, you can go to the Los Alamos History Museum (which we missed out on), and the Bradbury Science Museum, which is filled with highly interactive exhibits that teach about past, present, and future projects taking place at the Department of Energy's Los Alamos National Laboratory. And--wow!--is there some amazing science going on there! Below Right: Playing with the marble run. Middle: Comparing seismograph readings and shakes (in the chair) of natural earthquakes of different magnitudes and quakes caused by explosions. Left: Building blocks with the robotic arm, which scientists use when working with radioactive materials. Santa Fe StoneworksOk, so this isn't a tourist attraction, but was still one of the highlights of our trip, and I would be remiss if I didn't tell everyone to check them out (afterall, Christmas is almost here and there might be some interested people on your list.) About eight years ago, Dusty bought me a beautiful turquoise vein handled chef's knife, which I faithfully use every day. We happened upon an ad for the company who made it, Santa Fe Stoneworks, in a brochure and thought we'd try our luck at getting it sharpened while we were in town. By email, the excited owner told us to come on by and he'd be happy do to it for free--and also mentioned that everyone would be really happy to see him! As it turns out, Dustin Ramsey was his best friend's son who had moved away from the area years ago, Typically they only do sharpenings on Thursdays, but for this long-time friend, he offered to make an exception. Fortunately for us, he stuck to his word, even if it was for the wrong Dustin who showed up in his store on Friday. But he did have a little fun tricking his daughter by telling her that her childhood best friend was in the gallery. I'm not sure she was amused! haha!
Bandelier National MonumentAs you know, we've desperately been trying to enter an old Puebloan cliff dwelling, but our luck has clearly run out with the summer season, as most parks have shut down tours or began construction. Well, we..partially...got our wish at Bandelier National Monument near Los Alamos. This time only one dwelling Alcove House) was closed to visitors. (It just happened to be the coolest one.) Nonetheless, Bandelier certainly did not disappoint! Puebloans settled in Bandelier and began planting crops of beans, squash, and maize as early as 600 C.E., but it wasn't until around 1200 that a marked increase in population occurred. Along almost the entire cliffside, you can see remnants of cliff dwellings. These villages, built with masonry bricks made out of volcanic tuff local to the area, were built along the bottom of the cliff and were between two to four stories tall. Each floor (or ceiling) consisted of ponderosa pine beams, which, as you can see in the rows of holes in the photo above, were supported by the cliff wall on one end and masonry bricks on the other. As typical in Pueblo style homes, entry to the dwelling would have been in the roof and accessed by ladder. This was a mechanism of protection from enemies. Santa Fe Historic District
Santa Fe and Los Alamos were neat little towns with lots of history and things to do. We also visited the Taos Pueblo, which was an incredibly special experience (blog post coming soon), and went to the crazy fun Meow Wolf. But, the best part of our visit was getting to spend time with our nephew and learn about his new life here in New Mexico.
Social media tracking is a little freaky. The night we arrived in Santa Fe, Facebook started advertising Meow Wolf on Dusty's ads. He's always been a sucker for ads, so he clicked on the bait and decided it was something we had to do. Meow Wolf's mission is "to inspire creativity through art, exploration, and play so that imagination will transform our worlds." I figured the kids needed some art for homeschool credit, so we gave it a shot. Santa Fe is known for their prominent art scene, but there was a time when artists had to fit into a creative box to be recognized by galleries and collectors. This left hundreds of free-thinking outsiders, or self -proclaimed "weirdos," who had no way to let their creative voices be heard. Fortunately for us, all these weirdos found each other. In the early 2000's, a small group came together to rent a warehouse. They invited all their artist buddies, who prolifically painted every square inch of the place, and when they ran out of space, they started working on fantastical sculptures within the walls. At the time, this was just a wild, inclusive place for artistic rebels to create, party, and feel accepted. A family grew. A plan grew. Recognition grew. Overtime, this group of nonconformists developed a vision where all types of artists could breed their creative skills into one maximist permanent art exhibit for guests to explore for years to come. In 2016, Meow Wolf opened their first permanent exhibition, The House of Eternal Return, in Santa Fe, New Mexico. This 20,000 square foot ex-bowling alley now contains 70 rooms with hands-on art exhibits. A mind bending mix of escape room, obstacle course, and story art exhibit, Meow Wolf is certainly an experience like no other. Upon entering, you arrive at an old Victorian style home and are given a mystery to solve: A little boy has just died of a mysterious illness, but as it turns out, the family has been been meddling with different multiverses and they don't believe he's actually gone. How did little Lex get access to the multiverse and can the family get him back?
Meow Wolf completely exceeded my expectations in so many ways. I personally was astounded by how many people were there on a Friday at 1:00, and by the age span of participants. From babies in carriers to over 70, everyone was there enjoying the experience. You can see a Meow Wolf for yourself in four cities across the United States: Santa Fe (the original), Denver, Las Vegas, and Grapevine (near Dallas-Fort Worth). There is a planned opening for a new location in Houston in 2024 and one brochure mentioned one coming to Washington D.C. (though the website didn't mention that.) Each location has a different mystery to solve and different artists and exhibits that let the mystery unfold as participants travel through different multiverses. You can learn more about Meow Wolf by watching Meow Wolf: Origin Story documentary, available on iTunes.
|
Archives
October 2022
Categories |